Yushu 玉树 — Source of Three Rivers — Kekexili, Tibetan Nomads & Princess Wencheng's Ancient Road
Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture (玉树藏族自治州) sits at the heart of the Tibetan Plateau in southern Qinghai Province, at elevations averaging 4,200 meters. This is where the Yangtze, Yellow, and Mekong Rivers all originate — the "Sanjiangyuan" (Three River Source) — making Yushu the literal wellspring of Chinese and Southeast Asian civilization. Covering an area the size of England with a population of just 400,000, Yushu is one of the most sparsely populated, least developed, and most spectacularly beautiful regions in China.
Yushu's landscape is the Tibetan Plateau at its most dramatic: snow-capped peaks rising above 6,000 meters, vast alpine grasslands stretching to every horizon, turquoise lakes fed by glacial meltwater, and river valleys carved through mountains over millions of years. The region is home to Kekexili (可可西里), a UNESCO World Heritage Site and China's largest uninhabited nature reserve, where Tibetan antelope, wild yak, and snow leopards roam across a pristine high-altitude wilderness. The prefecture's capital, Jiegu Town (结古镇), was largely destroyed in the devastating 2010 earthquake and has since been rebuilt as a modern Tibetan town — a story of resilience that adds emotional depth to any visit.
For travelers seeking authentic Tibetan culture far from Lhasa's tourist crowds, Yushu delivers in abundance. The Jana Mani Stone City (嘉那嘛呢石城) near Jiegu is the world's largest collection of mani stones — over 2 billion carved prayer stones stacked in walls, corridors, and mounds across a vast hillside. The annual Yushu Horse Racing Festival (赛马节) in July draws Tibetan nomads from across the region for horse races, yak riding, traditional dance, and costume displays — one of the most vibrant cultural events on the plateau. The ancient Tang-Tibet Road (唐蕃古道) passes through Yushu, marked by the Princess Wencheng Temple where the Tang Dynasty princess rested on her journey to marry the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo in 641 CE. Yushu is also home to some of the most important Nyingmapa (Red Hat) monasteries in Tibetan Buddhism, including the legendary Dondrubling Monastery.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017, Kekexili (可可西里) is the largest and highest UNESCO site in China — a vast, uninhabited wilderness spanning 45,000 square kilometers at an average elevation of 4,600 meters. Known as "China's last wilderness," Kekexili is home to some of the rarest wildlife on Earth: the Tibetan antelope (藏羚羊), wild yak, Tibetan wild ass (kiang), snow leopard, brown bear, and over 230 bird species. The landscape is hauntingly beautiful — endless salt flats, snow-capped mountains, turquoise lakes, and desolate plains where the silence is broken only by wind and the distant calls of wildlife.
The reserve became internationally known through the film "Kekexili: Mountain Patrol" (2004), which documented the deadly struggle between park rangers and poachers targeting Tibetan antelope for their shahtoosh wool. Thanks to decades of conservation effort, the antelope population has recovered from under 20,000 in the 1990s to over 70,000 today. For visitors, the main route is the Qinghai-Tibet Highway (G109) and the parallel Qinghai-Tibet Railway, which cross the northern edge of Kekexili between Golmud and Lhasa. Viewing Tibetan antelope along this route is possible, especially near the Sonam Dargye Protection Station. True entry into Kekexili's interior requires special permits and a serious expedition — this is not a casual tourist destination but a wilderness that demands respect and preparation.
Hours: No fixed hours; the highway traverse takes 6–8 hours by vehicle
Admission: Free for highway viewing; interior access requires special permits
Transport: Self-drive or hired vehicle from Golmud (G109 south toward Lhasa); bus services on the Golmud–Lhasa route pass through
The world's largest collection of mani stones, Jana Mani Stone City (嘉那嘛呢石城) is a breathtaking spiritual monument on the outskirts of Jiegu Town, the capital of Yushu Prefecture. Over more than 300 years, Tibetan pilgrims have carved and stacked an estimated 2.5 billion stones inscribed with Buddhist mantras — primarily "Om Mani Padme Hum" — creating a vast labyrinth of stone walls, corridors, and mounds covering several hectares. The site includes 25 stone "rooms" that visitors can walk through, the main stupa, and prayer flag forests stretching across the hillside.
The stone city was begun in 1715 by the first Jana Rinpoche, a local lama who established the tradition. Today, devotees continue to add new stones — you'll see families, monks, and elderly pilgrims carefully placing new inscribed stones alongside the billions already there. The sheer scale is overwhelming: stone walls several meters high and hundreds of meters long, every surface covered in precisely carved Tibetan script, prayer flags strung between poles adding color to the gray and white stones. Walking through the corridors, spinning prayer wheels embedded in the walls, and listening to the murmured prayers of pilgrims creates one of the most profound spiritual experiences in all of Tibetan culture. The site is free to visit and can be reached by taxi from Jiegu center (10 minutes). Visit at dawn or sunset when the light transforms the stones, and when pilgrim activity is most concentrated.
Hours: Open 24 hours; best visited 6:00–8:00 AM or 17:00–19:00
Admission: Free (donations welcome)
Transport: Taxi from Jiegu Town center (10 min, ¥15); walkable from most Jiegu hotels (30 min)
China's first national park, Sanjiangyuan (三江源, "Source of Three Rivers") protects the headwaters of the Yangtze, Yellow, and Mekong Rivers — rivers that sustain over 1.5 billion people across China and Southeast Asia. Established as a national park in 2016, the park covers 123,100 square kilometers of alpine meadows, glacial peaks, wetlands, and river valleys at elevations from 3,500 to 6,800 meters. It is among the most important ecological reserves on Earth.
The park contains three distinct zones: the Yangtze River Source Zone with its vast glacier fields and wild open landscapes; the Yellow River Source Zone with its wetlands and lakes; and the Lancang (Mekong) River Source Zone with lush river valleys unusual for the Tibetan Plateau. Wildlife includes snow leopards, Tibetan antelope, blue sheep, black-necked cranes, and the rare Pallas's cat. The park requires permits for entry, and much of it is accessible only with registered guides or tour operators based in Jiegu. Popular accessible areas include the Yellow River Source near Madoi County (where the first drop of the Yellow River emerges from a mountain spring) and the Lancang Source in Zaduo County. Travel is primarily by 4WD vehicle. The park is best visited June–September when roads are passable and grasslands are green. Several eco-tourism operators based in Jiegu offer multi-day guided trips.
Hours: Generally accessible June–September; permits required year-round
Admission: Permit fees vary; guided tours typically ¥3,000–8,000 for multi-day trips
Transport: 4WD required; hire from Jiegu or book through tour operators
Perched on a cliff face along the ancient Tang-Tibet Road, the Princess Wencheng Temple (文成公主庙) commemorates the Tang Dynasty princess who traveled to Tibet in 641 CE to marry King Songtsen Gampo, forging an alliance between the Tang Empire and the Tibetan Empire. According to legend, the princess rested at this site during her arduous journey and stayed for a month, during which she instructed local people in farming techniques, weaving, and Buddhism. The temple, built within a natural cliff cave, contains a 9-meter-high rock-carved statue of the princess flanked by two attendants.
The temple's architecture blends Chinese and Tibetan styles, and it is the only temple in China dedicated specifically to Princess Wencheng. Inside the cave, Buddhist murals from different historical periods overlay each other, creating layers of artistic heritage spanning over 1,300 years. The surrounding cliff faces are covered with Tibetan script carved by pilgrims over centuries. The site sits in the Bayi Gorge (白扎沟), 20 km south of Jiegu, in a dramatic setting of red sandstone cliffs and forested mountains. A Buddhist nunnery adjacent to the temple is still active. The temple holds special significance in Chinese-Tibetan relations and is considered a symbol of cultural exchange. Allow 1–2 hours for the visit including the gorge walk. The road to the temple passes through scenic mountain terrain.
Hours: 9:00–17:00 daily
Admission: ¥30
Transport: Taxi from Jiegu (30 min, ¥60–80); some tour operators include it in day trips
One of the most important Nyingmapa (Red Hat sect) monasteries in Amdo Tibet, Dondrubling Monastery (禅古寺) sits on a hillside overlooking the Batang River Valley 10 km from Jiegu Town. Founded in the 12th century, the monastery was almost entirely destroyed in the 2010 Yushu earthquake and has been reconstructed with support from the central government and international donors. Despite the tragedy, the monastery has re-emerged as a vibrant center of Buddhist learning with over 400 monks in residence.
The rebuilt complex features traditional Tibetan architecture with golden roofs, whitewashed walls, and colorful murals depicting Buddhist deities and scenes from Tibetan history. The monastery is especially important for its association with the Karmapa lineage — the 17th Karmapa spent time here before fleeing to India. Visitors can attend morning prayer sessions (around 7:00 AM) when monks chant and debate in the assembly hall, explore the main courtyard and surrounding chapels, and hike the hillside kora (pilgrimage circuit) for panoramic views of the Batang Valley. The monastery also manages a school for young monks and a traditional Tibetan medicine clinic. The juxtaposition of ancient spiritual practice and modern reconstruction creates a deeply moving atmosphere. Combine with the Jana Mani Stone City and Princess Wencheng Temple for a full day of cultural exploration around Jiegu.
Hours: 7:00–18:00 daily (morning prayers around 7:00–9:00)
Admission: Free (donations welcome)
Transport: Taxi from Jiegu (20 min, ¥30); walkable from Jana Mani Stone City
The biggest cultural event on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, the annual Yushu Horse Racing Festival (玉树赛马节, also called Jiegu Horse Racing Festival) takes place on the grasslands near Jiegu Town each July 25–27 (Tibetan calendar dates may vary slightly). For three days, Tibetan nomads from across Yushu and neighboring regions gather in traditional costumes for horse races, yak races, archery competitions, wrestling matches, and folk singing and dancing. The festival is also known as the "Cosplay of the Nomads" — local families dress in their finest embroidered chubas (traditional robes), turquoise jewelry, and elaborate headdresses, creating a spectacular display of Tibetan textile art.
The festival atmosphere is electrifying: hundreds of horses thundering across grasslands under vast blue skies, nomad families camped in colorful tents, the sounds of long horns and drums echoing across valleys, and the air filled with the aroma of roasted lamb and butter tea. Events include flat racing, obstacle racing, horseback archery, and the dramatic "horseback pickup" where riders grab items from the ground at full gallop. Beyond the competitions, the festival features traditional Tibetan opera, Hua'er folk singing, and trade fairs selling local handicrafts, medicinal herbs, and livestock. For visitors, this is the single best opportunity to experience authentic Tibetan nomadic culture in its full splendor. Accommodation in Jiegu books out months ahead — reserve by April if possible. Camping on the festival grounds is possible but bring warm gear; nights drop below freezing even in July.
Hours: Full-day events, typically 8:00–18:00; evening cultural performances
Admission: Varies; grandstand seats ¥100–500; general admission usually free
Transport: Fly to Yushu Batang Airport (daily flights from Xining, Chengdu, Xi'an); book early for July
The Tongtian River (通天河, "Heaven-Reaching River") is the Qinghai section of the upper Yangtze River, and its grand canyon offers some of the most dramatic river scenery in China. The canyon cuts through the Bayan Har Mountains with walls towering 500–800 meters above the emerald-green water, creating a landscape of raw geological power. The river's name comes from the classical Chinese novel "Journey to the West," where the Monkey King crosses this river — adding a literary dimension to the natural grandeur.
The best section for viewing is near Zhiduo (治多) County, where the road follows the canyon rim offering spectacular vantage points. The river here is wide and fast-flowing, fed by glacial meltwater from the Tanggula Mountains to the south. Look for Himalayan marmots on the slopes, eagles soaring above, and traditional Tibetan villages perched on river terraces. Several suspension bridges cross the canyon, allowing close encounters with the roaring water below. The area is also home to the "Kings of the River" — locals who fish the traditional way. The canyon is 2–3 hours from Jiegu by road, best visited as part of a longer driving itinerary through Sanjiangyuan. Combine with the Yangtze River Source zone for a comprehensive river-to-source experience.
Hours: Open access; best visited 9:00–17:00 for daylight
Admission: Free (some viewing platforms charge ¥10–20)
Transport: Self-drive or hired 4WD from Jiegu (2–3 hours)