Haidong 海东 — Gateway to Tu & Salar Culture — Ancient Temples, Yellow River Canyons & Alpine Forests
Haidong (海东), whose name literally means "East of the (Qinghai) Lake," is a prefecture-level city covering the eastern gateway to Qinghai Province. Sandwiched between Xining to the west and Gansu Province to the east, Haidong is where the Tibetan Plateau transitions into the Loess Plateau, creating dramatic landscapes of deep river canyons, forested mountains, and terraced hillsides. The region is home to two of China's most fascinating ethnic minorities — the Tu people in Huzhu County and the Salar people in Xunhua County — each with distinct languages, customs, and architectural traditions found nowhere else in China.
What makes Haidong special is its cultural diversity wrapped in stunning natural scenery. The Tu people, descendants of ancient Mongol-Turkic tribes, maintain unique wedding ceremonies, colorful embroidered costumes, and a tradition of "Hua'er" folk singing recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage. The Salar people, believed to have migrated from Samarkand in the 13th century, blend Central Asian and Tibetan influences in their mosques, cuisine, and customs. Meanwhile, Qutan Temple in Ledu District preserves some of the finest Ming Dynasty Tibetan Buddhist murals in China, and Mengda Tianchi offers an alpine lake surrounded by primeval forest in a nature reserve dubbed "Xishuangbanna of the Plateau."
For travelers, Haidong offers experiences that complement rather than compete with Xining and Qinghai Lake. History buffs can explore the Lajia archaeological site where the world's oldest noodles (4,000 years old) were discovered; culture seekers can attend Tu wedding reenactments or visit Salar villages along the Yellow River; nature lovers can hike through the canyons of Huzhu Beishan or boat on Mengda Lake. The region remains less visited than Xining and Qinghai Lake, which means more authentic encounters and fewer crowds. Haidong is accessible by high-speed rail from Xining (20–40 minutes) and by road along the Yellow River scenic route toward Gansu's Xiahe and Langmusi.
Often called the "Little Potala Palace of Qinghai," Qutan Temple (瞿昙寺) is a Ming Dynasty Tibetan Buddhist monastery renowned for its exceptional murals, ancient architecture, and historical significance. Founded in 1392 and expanded under imperial patronage through the Ming and Qing dynasties, the temple complex covers 15,000 square meters on a hillside in Ledu District, 80 km southeast of Xining. Unlike most Tibetan monasteries rebuilt in modern times, Qutan retains much of its original Ming architecture, making it one of the best-preserved historic temples in northwest China.
The temple's greatest treasures are its murals — over 400 square meters of Ming and Qing Dynasty paintings depicting Buddhist deities, historical figures, and daily life in vivid detail. The paintings are remarkable for blending Han Chinese and Tibetan artistic styles, a visual record of cultural exchange along the Silk Road. The complex follows traditional Chinese palace architecture with courtyards, gates, and halls ascending the hillside, topped by a grand hall with golden roof tiles. Visitors can explore the main halls, climb to the upper pavilions for valley views, and examine the murals up close. The temple sees relatively few tourists compared to Kumbum Monastery near Xining, creating a more contemplative atmosphere. Allow 2–3 hours. The nearby Ledu Museum displays artifacts from the region's history including Neolithic pottery and Bronze Age relics.
Hours: 8:00–18:00 (summer), 8:30–17:30 (winter)
Admission: ¥50
Transport: 1.5 hours by bus from Xining South Bus Station to Ledu, then local taxi (20 min)
A hidden gem of alpine scenery on the edge of the Tibetan Plateau, Huzhu Beishan National Forest Park (互助北山国家森林公园) covers 1,127 square kilometers of forested mountains, deep canyons, waterfalls, and wildflower meadows at elevations of 2,100–4,300 meters. The park lies in Huzhu Tu Autonomous County, one of only two Tu-majority counties in China, making it a destination where nature and ethnic culture intertwine. The landscapes here are among the most diverse in Qinghai — evergreen forests, birch groves, alpine lakes, and jagged peaks carved by glaciers and rivers.
Key attractions within the park include Langshi Dang Gorge, a dramatic canyon with waterfalls cascading down mossy cliffs; Yuanpu Dang, a high-altitude meadow with wildflowers in July–August; and various forest trails ranging from easy walks to full-day hikes. The park is home to wildlife including blue sheep, musk deer, and over 100 bird species. Tu ethnic villages dot the park's periphery, where visitors can experience traditional Tu architecture, food, and folk songs. The Tu people are known for their colorful embroidered clothing and elaborate wedding ceremonies. Accommodation is available in park guesthouses and nearby Huzhu County seat. Best visited May–October; July–August for wildflowers. The park is 1.5–2 hours from Xining by road.
Hours: 8:00–18:00 (May–October); limited access in winter
Admission: ¥60 (main scenic areas)
Transport: Bus from Xining to Huzhu County (1.5 hours), then local transport to park entrance
A pristine alpine lake nestled in ancient forest, Mengda Tianchi (孟达天池, "Mengda Heavenly Lake") is often called the "Xishuangbanna of the Plateau" for its unusually diverse ecosystem. Located in Xunhua Salar Autonomous County at 2,500 meters elevation, the lake sits within a 9,544-hectare nature reserve protecting over 500 plant species, 100+ bird species, and rare animals like the blue sheep. The lake itself covers 200 acres, surrounded by dense forest that turns golden in autumn — one of Qinghai's most spectacular fall foliage displays.
The reserve is accessible via a 40-minute hike or electric cart up to the lake, then trails circle the shoreline and climb to viewpoints. The forest includes pine, birch, spruce, and oak — unusual tree diversity for the Tibetan Plateau. Birds include golden pheasants, snow partridges, and various raptors. The lake freezes in winter, creating a serene snowscape. Nearby, the Yellow River flows through dramatic gorges, and Salar villages offer cultural immersion — the Salar are known for woodworking, unique vocal folk music, and their distinctive Central Asian-influenced cuisine. Xunhua County is 2.5 hours from Xining by road. The area remains off most tourist itineraries, offering a genuine escape.
Hours: 8:00–18:00 (May–October); closed or limited access November–April
Admission: ¥50 (lake area); additional fees for electric cart
Transport: Bus from Xining to Xunhua (2.5 hours), then taxi to reserve (30 min)
One of the most important Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) monasteries in Amdo Tibet, Youning Temple (佑宁寺) was founded in 1604 and once housed over 7,000 monks, making it a major center of Tibetan Buddhist learning. Located in Huzhu Tu Autonomous County, 30 km from the county seat, the temple sits dramatically on a mountainside with views across forested valleys. Though smaller today with several hundred monks, it remains an active teaching monastery and pilgrimage site.
The complex includes a main assembly hall with golden roof, multiple shrines, monks' quarters climbing the hillside, and a large white stupa. The temple is known for its butter sculptures and sacred masked dance festivals during Tibetan New Year. Unlike more touristy monasteries, Youning sees few foreign visitors — most pilgrims are local Tibetans and Tu people. The atmosphere is authentically religious rather than commercial. Photography is permitted in outdoor areas; ask permission inside halls. The surrounding area offers hiking through Tu villages and forest trails. Combine with a visit to Huzhu Beishan Forest Park. Allow 2 hours for the temple itself.
Hours: 8:00–17:00 daily
Admission: ¥30
Transport: From Huzhu County seat, taxi or local bus (40 min)
One of China's most significant archaeological discoveries of recent decades, the Lajia Site (喇家遗址) in Minhe County reveals a 4,000-year-old settlement destroyed by an ancient earthquake and flood — remarkably preserved under sediment. Most famously, archaeologists found the world's oldest known noodles here, a bowl of millet noodles carbon-dated to 2,000 BCE, rewriting the history of pasta. The site offers a window into the Qijia Culture, a Bronze Age civilization that thrived along the Yellow River.
The on-site museum displays excavated houses, pottery, jade artifacts, and the famous noodle bowl (a replica, the original being too fragile). The most poignant exhibits are skeletons found in embraces — a mother shielding her child, adults protecting each other — frozen in their final moments by the catastrophic flood. The site lies along the Yellow River near the Qinghai-Gansu border, 3 hours from Xining. It's a worthwhile stop for history enthusiasts traveling between Xining and Lanzhou or Xiahe. Allow 1.5 hours for the museum. Combine with a visit to the nearby Yellow River gorges.
Hours: 9:00–17:00 (closed Mondays)
Admission: ¥40
Transport: Bus from Xining to Minhe County (2 hours), then taxi (30 min)
A recreation of a Qing Dynasty post station and commercial town, Ping'an Yizhan (平安驿) in Ping'an District offers an immersive experience of traditional northwestern Chinese architecture, food, and folk culture. Built around the site of an actual historical relay station on the ancient Silk Road route, the complex features restored and reconstructed buildings housing restaurants, craft workshops, inns, and performance venues. It's become a popular weekend destination for Xining residents seeking a taste of "old Qinghai."
Highlights include traditional Qinghai-style restaurants serving lamb dishes, noodles, and local specialties; workshops demonstrating embroidery, leather-craft, and pottery; nightly folk performances including Tu and Hua'er singing; and photogenic streets with lanterns, carved wooden facades, and stone bridges. The town is especially atmospheric at night when lanterns illuminate the lanes. It's 30 minutes from Xining by car or 15 minutes by high-speed train to Ping'an Station, making it an easy half-day excursion. Come for lunch and stay into the evening for performances. The town can get crowded on weekends.
Hours: 10:00–22:00 daily (restaurants until 21:00)
Admission: Free (pay for food and activities)
Transport: High-speed train Xining→Ping'an (15 min) + 10-min taxi; or drive 30 min from Xining