Hainan 海南 — South of Qinghai Lake — Yellow River Canyon & Colorful Peaks
Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture (海南藏族自治州) sprawls across the southern shore of Qinghai Lake — China's largest inland body of water — and extends southward along the Yellow River through some of the most dramatic canyon landscapes on the Tibetan Plateau. The name "Hainan" literally means "South of the Sea," referring to its position relative to Qinghai Lake, which Tibetans have long called the "Cyan Sea" (措温波). With five counties — Gonghe, Guide, Tongde, Guinan, and Xinghai — the prefecture spans 44,500 km² of high-altitude grasslands, desert steppe, and river valleys.
The prefecture serves as the eastern gateway to the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Here, the Yellow River makes a dramatic 180-degree turn and cuts through the Longyang and Laxiwa gorges, dropping over 1,000 meters in elevation and generating immense hydroelectric power. In Guide County, the river widens and runs crystal clear — earning the famous saying "The Yellow River is muddy everywhere except in Guide." The county's warm microclimate supports apricot orchards and wheat fields, earning it the nickname "Little Jiangnan of the Plateau."
Hainan holds deep historical significance as the corridor where Princess Wencheng entered Tibet in 641 AD to marry King Songtsen Gampo, a journey that helped bring Buddhism to Tibet. The Riyue (Sun-Moon) Mountain marks where she said farewell to the Tang Dynasty and stepped into Tibetan territory. Today, the prefecture combines this rich heritage with world-class natural attractions — from the Seven-Color Peaks of Guide's Danxia formations to the vast wetlands where the Yellow River meets the Qinghai Lake basin.
Erlangjian (二郎剑, "Two-Headed Sword") is the main developed tourist area on Qinghai Lake's southern shore, named for a narrow 25-kilometer peninsula that thrusts into the lake like a sword blade. This is the most accessible point to experience China's largest inland lake (4,573 km²) and the world's largest high-altitude saltwater lake. The turquoise waters stretch to the horizon, framed by snow-capped mountains in the distance.
The site was once China's first torpedo testing base (code-named "151 Base") from 1965 to 1984, testing over 3,349 torpedoes for naval development. Today, the former observation platform houses a torpedo museum. Other attractions include the Auspicious Four Beings sculpture, the Qinghai Lake Poetry Plaza with 24 bronze epic poetry sculptures, the Holy Lake Altar with 108 prayer wheels, and the Queen Mother of the West statue rising from the wetlands. Boat tours, horseback riding, and the annual Qinghai Lake International Cycling Race add to the experience.
Hours: 8:00–18:00
Admission: ¥90 (peak), ¥50 (off-season)
Rising 3,200 meters on the boundary between agricultural and pastoral Qinghai, Riyue Mountain marks one of China's most important geographical and cultural divides. East of the pass lie wheat fields and villages — the "Little Jiangnan" of the plateau; west stretch endless grasslands and nomad tents. The mountain is also the boundary between monsoon and non-monsoon zones, and between the Loess Plateau and the Tibetan Plateau.
In 641 AD, 16-year-old Princess Wencheng of the Tang Dynasty crossed this pass on her way to marry Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo — a political marriage that brought Buddhism and Chinese culture to Tibet. Legend says she threw her "Sun-Moon Mirror" (日月宝镜) here, unable to bear the sorrow of leaving home; the mirror shattered into two peaks, creating the Sun Mountain and Moon Mountain. Today, the pass features twin pavilions, Princess Wencheng Temple, and thousands of prayer flags. The views in both directions capture the dramatic landscape transition.
Elevation: 3,520 meters (pass), 4,877 meters (peak)
Admission: ¥40
Standing 178 meters tall — once China's highest dam — the Longyang Gorge Hydropower Station is the "Head of the Yellow River," the first major dam on China's second-longest river. Built between 1976 and 1989, it represented the highest level of Chinese hydropower engineering in the 1980s. The reservoir behind the dam holds 24.7 billion cubic meters of water across 383 km², regulating flow for the entire Yellow River basin.
Visitors can tour the massive dam, descend into the power house to see the four 320-megawatt generators, and take boat trips on the reservoir — nicknamed the "Plateau Emerald" for its stunning blue-green waters. The surrounding Longyang Gorge town offers accommodations and restaurants with dramatic canyon views. In recent years, the area has developed as a destination for rock climbing, hiking, and extreme sports, including international mountain bike downhill races. The 37-kilometer canyon drops 240 meters through sheer cliffs that glow red at sunset.
Hours: 8:30–18:00
Admission: Dam tour ¥80, boat ¥100–200
In the arid valleys of Guide County, wind and water have sculpted the multicolored sandstone into a fantasy landscape of crimson cliffs, golden spires, and purple pinnacles. The Guide National Geopark (青海贵德国家地质公园) spans 554 km² and features the spectacular Ashigong Seven-Color Peaks (阿什贡七彩峰丛) — Danxia formations layered in red, orange, yellow, white, and green by millions of years of sedimentation.
Three main areas make up the park: the Ashigong Seven-Color Peaks (the most visited), the Mawu Gorge wind-eroded caves, and the Yellow River Valley corridor. The geological museum at the entrance explains the formation processes and displays local fossils. The park hosts the annual international mountain bike downhill race on its challenging terrain. Combined with the nearby Yellow River wetlands and hot springs, Guide offers a unique combination of geological wonder, clear-water rafting, and thermal relaxation.
Hours: 8:40–17:00 (summer), 9:30–17:00 (winter)
Admission: ¥100 (Seven-Color Peaks)
"The Yellow River is muddy everywhere except in Guide." This famous saying refers to the 28-kilometer stretch of the Yellow River that flows crystal clear through Guide County, thanks to the settling effect of the Longyang Gorge reservoir upstream. The Guide Yellow River Wetland National Park protects 4,516 hectares of riverine wetlands, lakes, marshes, and riparian forests that provide critical habitat for over 120 bird species.
Walking paths and observation platforms allow visitors to experience the paradox of a clear Yellow River — the water runs jade-green rather than the characteristic ochre. Common birds include ruddy shelducks, great egrets, swans, and bar-headed geese. The Qianzi Lake (千姿湖) area features lotus flowers and wetland gardens. The park is a major wintering ground for waterfowl, with thousands of birds gathering from November through February. Bicycle rentals and electric boats are available.
Hours: Dawn to dusk
Admission: Free (boat/bike rentals extra)
Tucked in a valley 15 km from Guide town, the Zhacang Hot Springs (扎仓温泉, also called Guide Hot Springs) are among Tibet's most famous thermal springs. Tibetan pilgrims call them "Deren Jiquku" — the Spring of Peace and Happiness. The original 70+ spring openings (now reduced to about 20 due to development) emerge at temperatures up to 92°C, nearly boiling, hot enough to cook eggs and meat directly in the water.
Historical records show people have bathed here for healing since 1381 AD (Ming Dynasty), over a century before the famous Anning Hot Springs in Yunnan. Princess Jincheng rested here on her journey to Tibet in 709 AD. The mineral-rich water — a weak alkaline carbonate-sulfide type — is believed to treat arthritis, skin conditions, and rheumatism. Modern facilities include a spa hotel with private soaking tubs. The surrounding valley, with its sheer rock walls and thermal steam rising from multiple vents, creates an otherworldly atmosphere.
Hours: 8:00–22:00
Admission: Public pools ¥80–120, private rooms ¥200–400
Downstream from Longyang Gorge, the Laxiwa Hydropower Station represents the next generation of Yellow River hydroelectric development. With a total installed capacity of 4,200 megawatts from six 700-megawatt generators, it's one of China's largest hydropower facilities and the primary power source for the Northwest Grid. The dam rises 250 meters — taller than Longyang.
The engineering achievement is impressive: the underground powerhouse is carved 300 meters into the canyon wall. While less tourist-developed than Longyang Gorge, the viewing platforms offer dramatic perspectives of the canyon and the massive spillway. The reservoir's blue-green waters contrast with the gray limestone cliffs. Combined with a visit to Longyang Gorge (30 km upstream), this provides a comprehensive look at China's hydropower mastery on the Yellow River.
Hours: Viewing platform accessible during daylight
Access: 20 km from Guide town; taxi or private vehicle needed
Most rivers in China flow east toward the Pacific — but the Daotang River (倒淌河, "Backwards-Flowing River") flows west, draining from Riyue Mountain into Qinghai Lake. According to legend, when Princess Wencheng reached the pass and looked back toward Chang'an, her tears formed this river that flows "backwards" toward the lake, as if reluctant to leave her homeland.
The small river (about 40 km long) passes through grasslands and Tibetan villages before emptying into Qinghai Lake. While not a major attraction by itself, it's a scenic stop along the route from Xining to Qinghai Lake, with a small temple and prayer flags marking the legendary spot. The surrounding valley offers good views of the landscape transition that Riyue Mountain represents — agricultural fields to the east, grasslands to the west. A roadside memorial and statue commemorate the Wencheng legend.
Location: West of Riyue Mountain, along G109
Admission: Free (roadside stop)
The grasslands of Gonghe County stretch south from Qinghai Lake across vast high-altitude steppes where Tibetan nomads have herded yaks and sheep for millennia. At elevations of 3,000–3,500 meters, the grasslands bloom with wildflowers in summer — gentians, edelweiss, and aster creating carpets of purple and yellow against the backdrop of distant snow peaks.
Several nomad communities welcome visitors for homestays in traditional yak-hair tents (黑帐篷). Experience Tibetan hospitality with butter tea, tsampa (roasted barley flour), and yak meat dishes. Horseback riding and motorcycle tours can access more remote areas. The grasslands are part of the Qinghai Lake basin ecosystem and support wildlife including black-necked cranes, Tibetan gazelles, and foxes. In August, the Nadam Festival features horse racing, wrestling, and archery competitions. The clear night skies make this an excellent stargazing destination.
Best time: June to September
Cost: Homestays ¥150–300/person/night with meals