Nagqu 那曲 — Qiangtang Grassland — Roof of Northern Tibet at 4,500m
Nagqu (那曲) is one of the highest prefecture-level cities in China, with an average elevation of over 4,500 meters (14,800 feet). Located in northern Tibet, it covers the vast Qiangtang Grassland (羌塘草原), a remote high-altitude steppe that stretches all the way to the Xinjiang and Qinghai borders. The region is the ancestral homeland of Tibetan nomadic herders, who have roamed these plains with their yaks and sheep for centuries. Nagqu's sparse population and pristine environment make it one of China's last true wilderness areas.
The city of Nagqu itself is a modest settlement serving as the administrative center, with a population of around 50,000. Most travelers pass through on their way to Namtso Lake or the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, which stops at Nagqu Station. The region is famous for the Nagqu Horse Racing Festival (那曲赛马节), held annually in August, featuring horse racing, archery, and traditional Tibetan performances that draw nomads from across northern Tibet. Despite its extreme altitude and harsh winters, summer (June-September) brings a brief but spectacular season of green grasslands and wildflowers.
The Qiangtang Nature Reserve, one of the world's largest protected areas, is home to endangered species including the Tibetan antelope (chiru), wild yak, Tibetan wild ass (kiang), and the rare black-necked crane. The reserve was established in 1993 and covers 298,000 square kilometers — larger than the entire United Kingdom. Access is restricted to protect the fragile ecosystem, and special permits are required for deep exploration. Most visitors explore the accessible southern edges and the shores of Namtso Lake.
Namtso Lake (also spelled Namtso or Nam Co) is one of the three holiest lakes in Tibet, alongside Lake Yamdrok and Lake Mansarovar. At 4,718 meters (15,479 feet) above sea level, it is the highest saltwater lake in the world. The lake stretches 70 kilometers long and 30 kilometers wide, covering 1,920 square kilometers. Its brilliant turquoise waters are set against the dramatic backdrop of the Nyenchen Tanglha mountain range, with the 7,162-meter Mount Nyenchen Tanglha rising to the south. The Tashi Dor Island (扎西半岛), a small peninsula jutting into the lake, is the main tourist area with a monastery, guesthouses, and the most famous photography spots.
Visiting Namtso requires a 4-5 hour drive from Lhasa (220 km) and crossing the Lagen La Pass at 5,150 meters — the highest paved road pass in Tibet. The lake is sacred in Tibetan Buddhism, and pilgrims complete a kora (circumambulation) of the lake, which takes 10-15 days on foot. Most visitors spend 2-3 hours on the Tashi Dor Peninsula, hiking up the small hill for panoramic views and visiting the meditation caves. Sunrise over the lake is spectacular but extremely cold (often below freezing even in summer). Accommodation is basic — simple guesthouses with no heating. Bring a -10°C sleeping bag if staying overnight. The road to Namtso is typically open May-October; winter snowfall can close it for days or weeks.
Hours: 24 hours (best visited May-October)
Admission: ¥120 (park entry) + ¥20 (environmental fee)
Transport: Day tours from Lhasa (¥300-400 per person, 4-5h drive). Private car ¥800-1,200 round trip.
The Qiangtang Grassland (羌塘草原) covers the vast northern half of Tibet, forming one of the world's most remote and least-populated regions. At an average elevation of 4,500-5,100 meters, this high-altitude steppe extends over 600,000 square kilometers, crossed only by a few unpaved roads and the Qinghai-Tibet Railway. The landscape is breathtakingly empty — endless rolling plains dotted with nomadic yak-hair tents (black tents), grazing livestock, and the occasional Tibetan gazelle or wild donkey. In summer (June-August), the grassland transforms into a green carpet dotted with yellow and purple wildflowers.
The Qiangtang Nature Reserve was established in 1993 to protect the region's unique wildlife, including the endangered Tibetan antelope (chiru), whose fine wool (shahtoosh) is highly prized on the black market. The reserve is also home to wild yaks, Tibetan wild ass (kiang), snow leopards, and the black-necked crane. Access to the core reserve area requires special permits, but the southern edges along the road from Lhasa to Nagqu are easily accessible. The Nagqu Horse Racing Festival (August 10-16) is the best time to experience nomadic culture, with thousands of herders gathering for racing, dancing, and trading.
Hours: Best visited June-September
Admission: Free (open grassland)
Transport: Along the Lhasa-Nagqu highway (G109), 3h from Lhasa to the grassland edge.
The Nagqu Horse Racing Festival (那曲赛马节) is the most important cultural event in northern Tibet, held annually from August 10-16 on the grassland outside Nagqu city. During this week, thousands of Tibetan nomads from across the Qiangtang region gather in a massive tent city, bringing their finest horses, wearing their most elaborate traditional costumes, and celebrating with horse racing, yak racing, archery competitions, and folk dance performances. The festival is one of the few remaining authentic nomadic gatherings in China and offers an unparalleled window into traditional Tibetan culture.
The festival grounds become a temporary city of thousands of traditional black yak-hair tents, with vendors selling everything from Tibetan jewelry and clothing to dried yak meat and butter tea. Horse races include flat racing (5-10 km), obstacle races, and equestrian acrobatics where riders perform daring stunts at full gallop. The best time to visit is the first 2-3 days, when the main competitions take place. Accommodation is extremely limited — book months in advance, or consider camping. The altitude (4,500m) and cold nights (often below 5°C even in August) require proper preparation. Entry to the festival is free.
Dates: August 10-16 annually
Admission: Free
Transport: 1 km north of Nagqu city center. Walking distance from town.
Samding Monastery (赞丹寺), located about 30 kilometers south of Nagqu city, is often called the "Little Potala Palace" due to its striking architectural resemblance to the iconic Lhasa landmark. Built on a hillside overlooking the vast grasslands, the monastery features the same red-and-white color scheme, tiered construction, and golden roofs as the Potala. Founded in the 17th century, it is one of the largest and most important monasteries in northern Tibet, with over 200 resident monks.
The monastery's hilltop location offers panoramic views of the surrounding Qiangtang Grassland — a truly spectacular sight with the endless steppe stretching to the horizon. The interior houses several assembly halls, chapels, and a collection of Buddhist murals and thangkas. Unlike the crowded Potala in Lhasa, Samding receives very few visitors, offering a peaceful, authentic monastery experience. The climb from the parking area takes about 15-20 minutes. Allow 1-2 hours for the visit. The drive from Nagqu city takes about 45 minutes on a paved road.
Hours: 9:00–17:00
Admission: ¥30
Transport: 30 km south of Nagqu city on the Lhasa road (G109). Taxi ¥100-150 round trip.
Siling Lake (色林错) is the largest lake in Tibet, covering 2,391 square kilometers at an elevation of 4,530 meters. Despite being larger than Namtso, Siling receives far fewer visitors due to its remote location and difficult access. The lake is a designated Ramsar wetland site and an important breeding ground for the endangered black-necked crane. The lake's deep blue waters and the surrounding snow-capped peaks create a scene of stunning natural beauty, completely unspoiled by tourism infrastructure.
Siling Lake is best visited as part of a longer Nagqu circuit tour. The drive from Nagqu city takes about 4-5 hours on unpaved roads — a 4WD vehicle is essential, especially after rain when the dirt tracks become muddy. There are no villages or service facilities near the lake, so bring all food, water, and camping equipment if planning an overnight stay. The lake is home to several islands used by migratory birds. August-September is the best time for bird watching and photography. The area is also excellent for wildlife spotting, with Tibetan antelope and wild ass frequently seen along the drive.
Hours: Best May-October
Admission: Free
Transport: 4WD only, 4-5h from Nagqu. Hire guide/driver in Nagqu (¥500-800 day).
The Qinghai-Tibet Railway and the parallel G109 Highway form the main transportation corridor through Nagqu, crossing some of the world's highest and most spectacular terrain. The railway, completed in 2006, reaches a maximum elevation of 5,072 meters at Tanggula Pass, making it the highest railway in the world. The G109 Highway (called the "Celestial Road") runs from Beijing to Lhasa, with the 1,200-kilometer section through Tibet forming one of the world's most dramatic drives, crossing endless grasslands, snow-capped mountains, and vast plateaus.
Nagqu Station is the highest major railway station on the Qinghai-Tibet line at 4,513 meters. The train journey from Lhasa to Nagqu takes about 3-4 hours (¥65-120 for a seat), offering constant views of the grassland, nomadic camps, and wildlife. From the highway, you can spot Tibetan antelope, wild yaks, and foxes — especially in the early morning or late afternoon. The drive from Lhasa to Nagqu (320 km) takes 4-5 hours on the well-maintained G109. Services are available at the Nagqu city truck stop, but there are very few facilities along the road itself — always carry snacks and water.
Hours: Trains run daily; highway open year-round (weather permitting)
Train Fare: Lhasa-Nagqu ¥65-120
Driving: Lhasa-Nagqu by car ¥400-600 with driver
Dangra Yumco (当惹雍错) is the most sacred lake in the Bon tradition (Tibet's pre-Buddhist indigenous religion), located in the remote western part of Nagqu prefecture. At an elevation of 4,535 meters, the lake is remarkably deep — reaching 230 meters at its deepest point — with spectacular clarity. The adjacent Mount Darje (达尔果雪山), a sacred Bon mountain with seven peaks, completes the holy landscape. The area feels truly ancient and otherworldly, with traditional Bon villages preserving a way of life that predates Buddhism by centuries.
The lake is extremely difficult to reach — a 2-3 day journey from Nagqu requiring a 4WD vehicle and experienced driver familiar with the trackless terrain. The nearest town is Wenbu (文布), a traditional Bon settlement on the lake shore where simple guesthouse accommodation is available. Bon practitioners perform kora (circumambulation) of the lake, which takes 5-7 days on foot. Most foreign visitors combine a visit here with an expedition to the nearby 7,706-meter Mount Shishapangma. This is serious adventure travel — proper preparation, permits, and a local guide are essential.
Hours: Best June-September
Admission: Free
Transport: 4WD required, 2-3 days from Nagqu. Guide recommended (¥500-800/day).