Ezhou 鄂州 — Three Kingdoms — Ancient Wuchang
Ezhou (鄂州) is a historic city in eastern Hubei Province, located on the southern bank of the Yangtze River about 70 km east of Wuhan. With a history spanning more than 3,000 years, Ezhou served as the first capital of the Eastern Wu Kingdom (229–280 AD) during the Three Kingdoms period. Sun Quan, the founding emperor of Wu, established his court here before eventually moving the capital to Jianye (modern Nanjing). The city's ancient name "Wuchang" (武昌) actually referred to this location — not the modern Wuchang district of Wuhan — giving Ezhou a special place in Chinese historical consciousness.
Today, Ezhou has a population of about 1.1 million and covers 1,500 square kilometers. While it has developed into a modern industrial city, its rich Three Kingdoms heritage remains visible in numerous temples, pavilions, and archaeological sites. The city is also famous for Liangzi Lake, one of Hubei's largest freshwater lakes, known for its crystal-clear water and premium crab harvest in autumn. Ezhou's location along the Yangtze River and its proximity to Wuhan make it an easy and rewarding day trip for history enthusiasts and nature lovers alike.
Xilian Mountain is the site where Sun Quan established the Wu Kingdom capital in 229 AD. The mountain is dotted with ancient pavilions, temples, and historical sites that tell the story of the Three Kingdoms era. The Pan Pavilion (怡亭) on the mountainside offers panoramic views over the Yangtze River and the surrounding plains. Walking paths wind through bamboo groves and cypress trees, with stone tablets and inscriptions dating back to the Tang and Song dynasties. The mountain is also home to several Taoist and Buddhist temples that have been continuously active for over a thousand years. History buffs can easily spend 3–4 hours exploring the various sites, and the mountain is especially beautiful in spring when the azaleas bloom. Don't miss the Wu Dynasty Heritage Hall, which houses replicas of ancient weapons, armor, and maps from the Three Kingdoms period.
Hours: 8:00–17:00
Admission: ¥30
The Pan Pavilion is one of Ezhou's most treasured historical sites, featuring a famous stone inscription from the Tang Dynasty (618–907 AD) praising the scenic beauty of the Yangtze River. The pavilion was a favorite gathering place for scholars and poets during imperial times, who composed classical poetry while enjoying river views. The current structure has been rebuilt several times, but the original stone inscription is still preserved and protected. The pavilion sits on a small hill overlooking the Yangtze, making it a perfect spot for photography, especially at sunset when the river glows golden. The surrounding gardens have been restored with traditional landscaping, including lotus ponds and weeping willow trees. Entry is free, and it's a popular spot for locals practicing tai chi in the early morning.
Hours: Open 24 hours
Admission: Free
The Ezhou Museum is a well-curated regional museum showcasing artifacts from the city's 3,000-year history, with a special focus on the Three Kingdoms period. The museum's collection includes bronze weapons, pottery, jade ornaments, and ancient coins excavated from local Wu Kingdom tombs. One of the highlights is a replica of the Wu Kingdom royal seal and a detailed scale model of ancient Wuchang as it appeared in 229 AD. The museum also features exhibits on local folk culture, including traditional embroidery and pottery-making techniques that are still practiced in rural areas around Ezhou. English signage is limited, but QR codes throughout the museum link to multilingual audio guides. Allow 1.5–2 hours for a thorough visit, and note that the museum is closed on Mondays.
Hours: 9:00–17:00 (closed Mondays)
Admission: Free
Liangzi Lake is the second-largest freshwater lake in Hubei Province, covering 370 square kilometers with exceptionally clear water thanks to strict environmental protections. The lake is famous throughout China for its hairy crab (大闸蟹) harvest, which peaks from September to November and is considered among the best in the country after Yangcheng Lake crabs. Visitors can take boat tours to explore the lake's islands, including Liangzi Island with its fishing villages and seafood restaurants. The lake area also offers fishing, birdwatching (over 100 species of waterfowl), and lakeside cycling paths. Several seafood restaurants line the shore, serving freshly caught fish, shrimp, and crabs prepared in traditional Hubei styles. Autumn is the best time to visit, combining pleasant weather with the crab season. Boat tours cost ¥50–80 per person and last about 1.5 hours.
Hours: Open 24 hours (boat tours 8:00–17:00)
Admission: Free (boat tours extra)
Bao'er Pagoda is a historic brick pagoda built during the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644), standing seven stories tall on the banks of the Yangtze River. The pagoda was originally constructed to ward off evil spirits and protect the city from flooding, reflecting traditional Chinese geomantic beliefs. Visitors can climb to the top for views of the river and the modern Ezhou skyline, though the staircase is narrow and steep. The pagoda grounds include a small temple with several Buddhist statues and a peaceful garden with century-old pine trees. It's a quieter alternative to the more popular Xilian Mountain, and entry is only ¥10. The pagoda is particularly atmospheric in the early morning when mist rises from the river, or in the evening when it's illuminated by soft lighting.
Hours: 8:00–17:00
Admission: ¥10
Spring (March–May): Pleasant temperatures (15–25°C) and blooming flowers on Xilian Mountain. This is an excellent time for hiking and outdoor exploration, though occasional spring rains can occur.
Summer (June–August): Hot and humid (28–35°C), but Liangzi Lake offers water activities and cooler breezes. Early morning or evening visits are recommended to avoid the midday heat.
Autumn (September–November): The best season for Ezhou. Comfortable temperatures (18–26°C), clear skies, and the famous Liangzi Lake crab harvest. October is ideal for both sightseeing and dining.
Winter (December–February): Cold (2–8°C) and damp. Fewer tourists, but many outdoor sites remain accessible. The crab season extends into early December for late harvests.
Getting local information: Visit the local tourist information center (usually near train stations or city squares). Free maps and event schedules available.
Using public transport: Most Chinese cities have affordable bus networks (2-3 RMB per ride). Buy a local transport card for convenience.
Evening safety: Chinese cities are generally safe at night. Stick to well-lit main streets after 22:00. Avoid unlicensed taxi services.
Photography etiquette: Ask permission before photographing locals, especially elderly people and children. Temples may prohibit indoor photography.
LocalSIMcards: China Mobile, China Unicom, and China Telecom all offer tourist SIMs (30-50 RMB/week) at airport counters.