Xuchang 许昌 — Ancient Capital of Cao Wei — Cradle of Three Kingdoms Legend
Xuchang, situated in the heart of Henan Province along the upper reaches of the Ying River, is one of China's most historically significant cities, best known as the political and military capital of Cao Wei during the tumultuous Three Kingdoms period (220–280 AD). Named after the legendary ancient state of Xu, the city served as the seat of power for the warlord Cao Cao from 196 AD, when he moved the puppet Emperor Xian of Han here, effectively making Xuchang the de facto capital of the Han Dynasty for over two decades. It was from this city that Cao Cao launched the campaigns that would shape the political landscape of third-century China, and it was here that his son Cao Pi formally ended the Han Dynasty and established the Wei Kingdom in 220 AD, ushering in the Three Kingdoms era.
Beyond its Three Kingdoms legacy, Xuchang boasts an even deeper cultural heritage. The city's history stretches back over 4,000 years, and the surrounding region was one of the earliest centers of Chinese civilization. Yuzhou, a county-level city under Xuchang's administration, is the birthplace of Jun porcelain (钧瓷), one of China's five great porcelain wares, renowned for its mesmerizing copper-red glazes that shimmer with iridescent colors like a sunset reflected on still water. The art of Jun porcelain, perfected during the Song Dynasty (960–1279), remains a living tradition in Yuzhou, where master potters continue to fire kilns using techniques passed down through generations. Xuchang is also famous throughout China for its production of human hair products — the city processes over 60% of the world's human hair extensions, a surprising modern industry that has made it a global hub in the beauty supply chain.
Today's Xuchang is a modern, well-planned city that has masterfully preserved its historical identity while embracing contemporary development. The city's streets are lined with cherry blossom trees that create spectacular pink tunnels each spring, earning Xuchang the nickname "Cherry Blossom City" of Henan. The urban landscape blends ancient pagodas and temple complexes with modern parks, shopping districts, and tree-lined boulevards. The city's efficient public transportation, clean environment, and relatively low tourist crowds make it an appealing destination for travelers seeking authentic Chinese history without the overwhelming commercialization found at more famous tourist sites. Xuchang offers a unique window into one of the most dramatic periods of Chinese history — the age of warlords, strategists, and legendary heroes that has inspired countless novels, television dramas, and films.
The Spring and Autumn Pavilion (春秋楼) is one of Xuchang's most iconic historical landmarks and a sacred site for devotees of Guan Yu, the legendary general of the Three Kingdoms period who was later deified as the God of War and Loyalty in Chinese culture. According to the historical novel Romance of the Three Kingdoms, Guan Yu was temporarily forced to serve under Cao Cao in Xuchang after being captured during the chaos of war. During this period, Cao Cao treated Guan Yu with extraordinary generosity, showering him with gifts, titles, and beautiful women in an attempt to win his loyalty. Guan Yu, however, remained faithful to his sworn brother Liu Bei. To demonstrate his unwavering loyalty and to keep his mind focused on righteous principles, Guan Yu enclosed himself in a chamber with a single lantern and spent his nights reading the Spring and Autumn Annals (春秋), the Confucian classic that chronicles the history of the State of Lu — a text that embodied the moral and ethical principles Guan Yu revered.
The pavilion complex that stands today was originally built during the Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368) and has been expanded and restored numerous times over the centuries. The main structure is an impressive multi-story wooden pavilion featuring traditional Chinese architectural elements including upturned eaves, carved wooden brackets (dougong), and elaborate painted decorations. The interior houses a magnificent statue of Guan Yu in a scholarly pose, holding the Spring and Autumn Annals in one hand, his long beard flowing down his chest — the classic image that appears on countless temple shrines and restaurant altars throughout the Chinese-speaking world. Surrounding the main pavilion is a complex of courtyards, auxiliary halls, and gardens that together cover approximately 20,000 square meters. The complex includes the Two-Sisterhoods Hall (二妃祠), dedicated to the two concubines that Liu Bei entrusted to Guan Yu's care, and the Ganlu (Sweet Dew) Pavilion, where Guan Yu reportedly composed poetry.
The gardens surrounding the pavilion are particularly beautiful, featuring ancient cypress trees, bamboo groves, lotus ponds, and classical rock gardens. A museum within the complex displays Three Kingdoms-era artifacts including weapons, pottery, and coins excavated from the Xuchang area, along with detailed exhibitions about Guan Yu's life and his transformation from historical figure to divine icon. The site also features calligraphy stones inscribed with famous verses about Guan Yu by poets and scholars from various dynasties. The Spring and Autumn Pavilion is especially atmospheric during the annual Guan Yu Festival (关帝庙会), held on the 24th day of the sixth lunar month, when traditional opera performances and religious ceremonies take place.
Hours: 8:00–17:30 (summer), 8:00–17:00 (winter)
Admission: ¥50
The Cao Wei Ancient Capital, commonly known as Cao Chengxiang Fu (曹丞相府), is a grand reconstruction of the administrative complex from which the brilliant and controversial warlord Cao Cao (曹操) governed his vast territories during the late Eastern Han Dynasty. Originally built in 196 AD when Cao Cao moved the capital to Xuchang, the complex served as the nerve center of the most powerful state in China for over two decades. It was from these halls that Cao Cao directed military campaigns against rival warlords, implemented agricultural reforms that revitalized the war-torn economy, recruited talented officials through his famous policy of "valuing merit over pedigree," and maintained the fiction of Han imperial authority even as real power shifted entirely to his household. The current complex, rebuilt on the original site based on historical records and archaeological findings, offers visitors a vivid immersion into the political and military world of the Three Kingdoms period.
The complex covers approximately 30,000 square meters and consists of multiple courtyards arranged along a central axis, following the traditional Chinese architectural pattern of "hall after hall." The main buildings include the Audience Hall (议政殿), where Cao Cao held court and received officials and envoys; the Military Strategy Hall (兵法堂), which displays exhibits on Cao Cao's innovative military tactics and campaigns; and the Library Hall (建安文学馆), dedicated to the Jian'an literary movement that Cao Cao and his sons championed. The Jian'an period (196–220 AD) was one of the golden ages of Chinese poetry, and Cao Cao himself was a gifted poet whose works, such as "Short Song Style" (短歌行) and "Viewing the Sea" (观沧海), remain among the most frequently anthologized poems in the Chinese literary canon. The complex features life-sized wax figures recreating famous scenes from Three Kingdoms history, including the famous meeting between Cao Cao and the warlord Liu Bei where they discussed which heroes could challenge them — a scene immortalized in the phrase "Boiling wine and discussing heroes" (煮酒论英雄).
Interactive exhibits throughout the complex bring the Three Kingdoms era to life. Visitors can try their hand at ancient Chinese strategy games, view demonstrations of traditional calligraphy and swordsmanship, and explore a reconstructed underground tunnel system that Cao Cao reportedly used for secret military communications. An evening sound-and-light show recreates the grandeur of court life in ancient Xuchang. The complex also houses a souvenir shop selling Three Kingdoms-themed items, replicas of ancient weapons, and calligraphy works. Allow at least 2–3 hours to fully explore the site. Audio guides are available in Chinese, English, and Japanese.
Hours: 8:00–18:00 (summer), 8:30–17:30 (winter)
Admission: ¥60; evening show ¥80
Baling Bridge is one of the most emotionally charged historical sites in all of Xuchang, marking the location where Guan Yu famously bid farewell to Cao Cao and set off to reunite with his sworn brother Liu Bei — a moment that has become one of the most celebrated episodes in Chinese literary and cultural tradition. According to the Romance of the Three Kingdoms, when Guan Yu learned that Liu Bei was still alive, he immediately resolved to leave Cao Cao's service despite the generous treatment he had received. In one of the most dramatic scenes in Chinese literature, Guan Yu placed all the gifts Cao Cao had given him in a sealed room, left behind a farewell letter written on a golden plaque, and rode out of Xuchang on his famous steed, the Red Hare (赤兔马). When Cao Cao learned of his departure, he rushed to Baling Bridge with his entourage and presented Guan Yu with a parting gift — a ceremonial robe (锦袍) that Guan Yu accepted but wore over his old armor to symbolize that while he acknowledged Cao Cao's kindness, his loyalty to Liu Bei remained paramount.
The bridge and surrounding scenic area have been developed into a cultural park that covers approximately 16 hectares along the banks of the Ying River. The current bridge is a faithful reconstruction of the ancient stone arch bridge, adorned with carved reliefs depicting scenes from the Three Kingdoms period. The park features an imposing bronze statue of Guan Yu on horseback at the bridge entrance, standing nearly 10 meters tall and rendered in magnificent detail — the flowing beard, the Green Dragon Crescent Blade (青龙偃月刀) slung across his back, and the Red Hare rearing up in dynamic motion. A series of stone tablets along the approach road are inscribed with famous lines from the Romance of the Three Kingdoms describing the farewell scene. The park also includes the Guan Yu Memorial Hall, which displays historical artifacts and artwork related to the general, and a classical garden with weeping willows, plum blossoms, and a lotus pond — a deliberately tranquil setting that contrasts with the dramatic historical events commemorated here.
The site is particularly beautiful in spring when the cherry blossoms for which Xuchang is famous create a pink canopy over the approach to the bridge, and in late summer when the lotus flowers in the pond are in full bloom. The park is a popular spot for local residents to practice tai chi in the early morning hours. Traditional Three Kingdoms-themed performances, including horseback riding demonstrations and sword dances, are staged on weekends and holidays. The park connects to a riverside walking trail that extends for several kilometers along the Ying River, making it an excellent place for a leisurely evening stroll. The combination of natural scenery, historical significance, and cultural artistry makes Baling Bridge an essential stop for anyone interested in the Three Kingdoms period.
Hours: 8:00–18:00 year-round
Admission: ¥40
The Yuzhou Jun Porcelain Museum, located in Yuzhou City approximately 30 kilometers south of Xuchang, is the definitive museum for understanding and appreciating Jun porcelain (钧瓷), one of the five great porcelain wares of the Song Dynasty and one of China's most celebrated artistic achievements. Jun porcelain, first developed during the Tang Dynasty and perfected during the Northern Song (960–1127), is distinguished by its thick, opalescent glazes that display an extraordinary range of colors — from sky blue and lavender to deep purple, crimson, and emerald green — often with mesmerizing iridescent effects that change under different lighting conditions. The most prized Jun ware pieces display a phenomenon known as "a sky after rain breaking through clouds" (雨过天晴云破处), where patches of vivid red or purple seem to emerge from a blue-green background like sunset clouds parting after a storm. This effect is achieved through a complex firing process that uses copper oxide as a colorant and relies on precise temperature control in a reducing atmosphere kiln — a technique that was a closely guarded secret for centuries.
The museum's collection spans over 1,000 years of Jun porcelain history, from the earliest Tang Dynasty precursors through the Song golden age, Yuan Dynasty adaptations, and contemporary masterworks. The exhibition halls display hundreds of exquisite pieces including imperial court bowls, vases, incense burners, and garden pots that once graced the palaces of Song emperors. The "Thousand Porcelain Gallery" features a remarkable display of 1,000 modern Jun ware pieces, each unique in its glaze pattern — demonstrating the fundamental characteristic of Jun porcelain that no two pieces are ever exactly alike due to the unpredictable nature of the kiln firing process. This unpredictability, known as "one color entering the kiln, ten thousand colors emerging" (入窑一色，出窑万彩), is what makes Jun porcelain so treasured among collectors. The museum also features detailed exhibits explaining the science behind the glazes, the history of the Jun kilns in the Yuzhou area, and the cultural significance of Jun ware in Chinese art history.
A highlight of any visit is the demonstration hall, where master potters give live demonstrations of traditional Jun porcelain techniques including wheel-throwing, glaze preparation, and kiln firing. Visitors can observe the entire process from raw clay to finished piece and may even try their hand at basic pottery techniques under the guidance of experienced artisans. The museum shop offers authentic Jun porcelain pieces at a range of price points, from small tea cups and trinkets starting at ¥50 to museum-quality collector pieces priced in the thousands. For serious collectors and ceramic enthusiasts, the museum can arrange visits to working kilns in the nearby Shenhou Town (神垕镇), the historic center of Jun porcelain production where over 100 active kilns continue to fire using traditional methods. Shenhou itself is a charming ancient town worth exploring, with cobblestone streets, traditional courtyard houses, and numerous porcelain shops and galleries. A combined visit to the museum and Shenhou Town makes for an excellent full-day excursion from Xuchang.
Hours: 9:00–17:00 (closed Mondays)
Admission: Free
Xuchang's cuisine is rooted in the hearty, wheat-based traditions of Henan Province, with influences from the surrounding Central Plains region. The city's food is known for its generous portions, bold flavors, and excellent value.