Haikou 海口 — Coconut City — Gateway to Tropical China
Haikou (海口), the capital of Hainan Province, is often overshadowed by the beach resorts of Sanya to the south, but this relaxed city of 2.3 million offers its own distinct charm. Known as the "Coconut City" for the palm trees lining its streets, Haikou sits on the northern coast of Hainan Island facing the Qiongzhou Strait. It's the entry point for most visitors to Hainan — Meilan International Airport handles more flights than Sanya — and the departure point for the hour-long ferry to mainland China.
The city's crown jewel is Qilou Old Town (骑楼老街), a 600-year-old historic district where arcaded buildings from the 1920s and 30s showcase a unique blend of Chinese, Southeast Asian, and European architectural styles. These "riding buildings" (骑楼) were built by returned overseas Chinese who brought influences from Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia. Today, the streets are lined with cafes, antique shops, and traditional medicine halls, creating one of China's most atmospheric historic neighborhoods. The area comes alive at night when food stalls set up along the arcades.
Haikou also offers unexpected natural attractions: the Shishan Volcanic Cluster Geopark (石山火山群地质公园) contains 36 dormant volcanoes that last erupted 10,000 years ago, now covered in tropical vegetation with crater lakes and lava tubes to explore. The city's beaches, while not as pristine as Sanya's, are free and easily accessible. Haikou is also Hainan's food capital — the city has more late-night snack streets than anywhere else in China, and its chicken rice and seafood dishes are considered the island's best. Most visitors spend 1–2 days here before heading south, but Haikou rewards those who linger.
Haikou's most atmospheric historic district, Qilou Old Town covers several blocks of arcaded buildings dating from the 1920s–30s. The architecture is a unique blend of Chinese courtyard design, Southeast Asian shophouse style, and European Art Deco influences — all adapted for Hainan's tropical climate with covered walkways that provide shade from the sun and shelter from rain.
The buildings were constructed by overseas Chinese who returned from Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia, bringing architectural influences from their adopted homes. The result is unlike anywhere else in China. Key streets include Zhongshan Road (中山路) for antiques and cafes, Bo'ai Road (博爱路) for traditional medicine shops, and Xinhua Road (新华路) for food stalls. The area is particularly atmospheric in the evening when lights illuminate the ornate facades and food vendors set up along the arcades. The Haikou Museum and several restored shophouses are open for interior visits. Allow 2–3 hours for a walking tour.
Hours: Open 24 hours; shops 10:00–22:00
Admission: Free
Location: Downtown Haikou, west of Haidian Island
A UNESCO Global Geopark covering 108 sq km, Shishan contains 36 dormant volcanoes that erupted intermittently from 1 million to 10,000 years ago. The landscape is a dramatic contrast of black basalt, bright green tropical vegetation, and crater lakes. The highest peak, Ma'anling (马鞍岭, Saddle Ridge), reaches 222 meters and offers views over the volcanic field.
A paved trail leads to the crater rim where you can look down into the dormant volcano. The route passes through lava caves (熔岩隧道), underground tubes formed by flowing lava that now host stalactites and colonies of bats. The park also contains traditional stone villages built entirely from volcanic rock, where locals have lived for centuries. The visitor center has a small museum explaining the geology. The park is 15 km southwest of Haikou (30 minutes by taxi). Morning visits are coolest. Bring water and sun protection.
Hours: 8:00–17:30
Admission: ¥60
Distance: 15km southwest of city center (30 min)
Haikou's main urban beach, Holiday Beach (假日海滩) stretches 6 km along the city's west coast. While not as pristine as Sanya's beaches, it's free, easily accessible by bus, and popular with locals for evening strolls, kite flying, and impromptu barbecues. The water is swimmable, though the Qiongzhou Strait means currents and turbidity from the mainland.
The beach is divided into sections: the public beach (free), a resort section with chairs and umbrellas for rent, and a watersports area offering jet skiing and banana boats. The area behind the beach has been developed into a park with walking paths, restaurants, and the Haihua Island entertainment complex. Evening is the best time to visit when the heat breaks and families gather. The beach is 10 km west of downtown (20 minutes by bus #35 or taxi). Avoid midday in summer when the sand becomes painfully hot.
Hours: Open 24 hours
Admission: Free (chair/umbrella rental ¥30–50)
Bus: #35 from downtown
Hainan's best museum, this modern facility showcases the island's unique history from its indigenous Li and Miao peoples through its development as a tropical resort destination. The collection includes traditional Li textiles (some of the world's oldest weaving techniques), maritime artifacts from the Maritime Silk Road, and exhibits on Hainan's role as a place of exile for disgraced officials in imperial times.
Highlights include the Li ethnic minority gallery, which displays intricate brocade textiles and traditional thatched houses reconstructed inside; the Maritime Silk Road exhibit, featuring shipwreck ceramics and navigation tools; and the Hainan history gallery, explaining how this remote island developed. The museum is free with ID. Allow 2 hours. Audio guides in English available. Closed Mondays. The museum is in Guoxing Avenue, 15 minutes by taxi from downtown.
Hours: 9:00–17:00 (closed Mondays)
Admission: Free (ID required)
A Song Dynasty temple complex honoring five officials exiled to Hainan during the Tang and Song dynasties, Wugong Temple (五公祠) dates from 1161 AD and is Haikou's oldest surviving structure. The temple sits in a garden setting with ancient banyan trees, lotus ponds, and traditional architecture.
The five officials (五公) were banished to Hainan as punishment but became local heroes by introducing education and agriculture improvements. The main hall contains their spirit tablets and portraits. The complex also includes the Sugong Shrine (苏公祠) honoring Su Dongpo, the famous Song poet who was exiled to Hainan and wrote many poems about its tropical landscape. The temple's garden is particularly lovely in the early morning when locals practice tai chi. The site is small — allow 1 hour. Located in central Haikou, 10 minutes by taxi.
Hours: 8:00–17:30
Admission: ¥20
A massive resort complex 15 km south of Haikou, Mission Hills is best known for its 10 golf courses (the world's largest golf resort), but it also offers the Mission Hills Volcanic Mineral Springs, a sprawling hot springs complex fed by volcanic groundwater, and the Mission Hills Movie Town, where visitors can explore recreated sets from famous Chinese films.
The hot springs complex has over 200 pools of varying temperatures and mineral contents, set in landscaped gardens. Private pools and spa treatments available. The Movie Town features sets from Feng Xiaogang's films, with period streets and buildings from Republican-era Shanghai and 1950s Beijing. Film Town admission ¥118; Hot Springs ¥198. The complex is 25 minutes from Haikou by taxi or shuttle bus. Plan a full day if combining golf, hot springs, and movie town.
Hours: Movie Town 10:00–22:00; Hot Springs 13:00–23:00
Admission: Movie Town ¥118; Hot Springs ¥198