Wuwei 武威 — Gateway to Hexi Corridor — Home of the Flying Horse, China's National Tourism Symbol
Wuwei (武威), known historically as Liangzhou (凉州), is one of the most storied cities along the Hexi Corridor — the narrow passage through Gansu that connected China to Central Asia and beyond. Founded in 121 BCE by the great Han dynasty general Huo Qubing after his decisive victory over the Xiongnu nomads, Wuwei was the first Chinese outpost established beyond the Yellow River, marking the beginning of China's expansion into the Western Regions. The city's name, bestowed by Emperor Wu of Han, means "military prowess" — a tribute to the battlefield triumphs that opened the Silk Road. For over 2,100 years, Wuwei has been a strategic military garrison, a flourishing trade hub, a center of Buddhism, and a melting pot of Han Chinese, Tibetan, Xiongnu, and other ethnic groups.
Today, Wuwei is best known for a single archaeological discovery that became an icon of Chinese civilization: the "Flying Horse Stepping on a Swallow" (马踏飞燕), also called the "Gansu Flying Horse" or "Bronze Galloping Horse." Unearthed in 1969 from the Leitai Han Tomb, this 2nd-century bronze sculpture of a horse in full gallop — one hoof balanced on a flying swallow — was adopted as China's official tourism symbol in 1983. The original is now in the Gansu Provincial Museum in Lanzhou, but Wuwei remains the place where this national treasure was found. Beyond the famous bronze, Wuwei holds other treasures: the Tiantishan Grottoes, known as the "ancestor of Chinese grottoes"; a magnificent Confucius Temple that is the largest in northwest China; and the White Pagoda Temple, where Tibet officially became part of China in 1247.
Wuwei sits at 1,500 meters elevation where the Hexi Corridor begins to widen, surrounded by farmland and the foothills of the Qilian Mountains. The city has a dry, continental climate with hot summers and cold winters. It is accessible by high-speed rail from Lanzhou (2.5 hours), making it an easy day trip or overnight stop on a Hexi Corridor journey. The main attractions can be covered in 1–2 days. Wuwei lacks the crowds of Dunhuang or the visual drama of Zhangye's Rainbow Mountains, which is part of its appeal — you can explore ancient tombs and Buddhist caves in relative peace. The city has a genuine, unpretentious character, with good local food and friendly residents who are happy to see visitors.
The Leitai Han Tomb (雷台汉墓) is where the famous "Flying Horse Stepping on a Swallow" bronze was discovered in 1969 by local farmers digging air-raid shelters. Excavations revealed a large Eastern Han dynasty (25–220 CE) tomb belonging to a high-ranking military commander, filled with an extraordinary collection of bronze figures — 99 horses, 39 chariots, and numerous attendants and warriors. The centerpiece, the Flying Horse (铜奔马), became one of China's most recognized cultural artifacts and the symbol of China National Tourism. The original bronze is now at the Gansu Provincial Museum in Lanzhou, but Wuwei displays excellent replicas and the tomb itself is open to visitors.
The tomb consists of a long sloping entrance passage leading to a brick-vaulted burial chamber about 10 meters underground. Inside, you can see the original layout: antechamber, central hall, and rear chamber where the coffin was placed. The construction is impressive — massive bricks forming a self-supporting arch that has survived 1,800 years. The walls bear traces of original murals, though most have faded. The cool, humid underground atmosphere is a relief on hot days. Adjacent to the tomb, the Leitai Park displays bronze replicas of the entire procession — horses, chariots, and figures arranged as they would have been in the tomb, giving a sense of the original spectacle.
Hours: 8:00–17:30 (summer), 8:30–17:00 (winter)
Admission: ¥45 (includes tomb entrance and park)
Transport: 10 minutes by taxi from city center (¥10–15). Bus No. 1 or 2 to Leitai stop.
Tips: The tomb is underground with narrow passages — not suitable for claustrophobics. Photography allowed. Combine with the adjacent Leitai Park. The original Flying Horse bronze is in Lanzhou's Gansu Provincial Museum (free admission, highly recommended).
The Wuwei Confucius Temple (武威文庙), built in 1439 during the Ming dynasty, is the largest and best-preserved Confucian temple in northwest China. Unlike most Confucius temples which were damaged or destroyed, Wuwei's survived remarkably intact, with magnificent wooden architecture, carved stone pillars, and ancient scholar trees still standing in the courtyards. The temple complex served as both a place of worship and an academy — a center of classical education for over 500 years. The atmosphere is serene and scholarly, with far fewer visitors than major tourist sites.
Attached to the temple is the Xixia Museum (西夏博物馆), which houses one of the world's most important collections of artifacts from the Western Xia (西夏) dynasty (1038–1227). This Buddhist Tangut kingdom controlled the Hexi Corridor for nearly two centuries before being annihilated by Genghis Khan, leaving behind a unique script that was not deciphered until the 20th century. The museum displays Western Xia ceramics, Buddhist art, coins, and the famous Wuwei "Stele with Western Xia Script" (西夏碑) — a bilingual stone inscription that was the Rosetta Stone for decoding the Western Xia language. Other treasures include bronze Buddha figures and silk paintings from the period.
Hours: 8:30–18:00 (summer), 9:00–17:30 (winter)
Admission: ¥30 (includes both temple and museum)
Transport: In the city center. Walking distance from most hotels. Taxi ¥8 from railway station.
Often called the "Ancestor of Chinese Grottoes" (石窟鼻祖), the Tiantishan Grottoes (天梯山石窟, "Heavenly Ladder Mountain") are among the oldest Buddhist cave temples in China, predating the more famous sites at Dunhuang, Longmen, and Yungang. Construction began in 412 CE under the Northern Liang kingdom, a short-lived dynasty that controlled the Hexi Corridor in the chaotic period between the Han and Tang dynasties. The Northern Liang rulers were devout Buddhists who sponsored cave excavation, and the styles and techniques developed at Tiantishan directly influenced later grotto art across China.
The centerpiece is Cave 13, a massive cavern housing a 23-meter-tall seated Buddha carved from the cliff face, flanked by two bodhisattvas and six disciples. This monumental sculpture, created during the Tang dynasty, is the largest stone Buddha in Gansu outside Dunhuang. The statue sits behind a reservoir — the Huangyang River reservoir built in the 1950s flooded the lower caves, though the main Buddha was protected by a cofferdam. Some original Northern Liang murals survive in upper caves, depicting seated Buddhas and donors in distinctive style.
The site is dramatically located in a canyon where the Qilian Mountains meet the desert, 50 km south of Wuwei. The drive passes through scenic mountain roads and reservoir views. The grottoes are far less visited than other cave sites — you may have the place to yourself. A small museum explains the history and displays artifacts from the caves. The juxtaposition of ancient Buddhist sculpture and modern reservoir is uniquely striking.
Hours: 9:00–17:30 (summer), 9:30–17:00 (winter)
Admission: ¥30
Transport: 50 km south of Wuwei (1 hour by car). Taxi ¥150–200 round trip; some hotels arrange tours; public bus to Huangyang Township then local taxi.
The White Pagoda Temple (白塔寺) is one of the most historically significant sites in China-Tibet relations. In 1247, Sakya Pandita (萨班·贡嘎坚赞), the supreme leader of Tibetan Buddhism, met with Godan Khan, grandson of Genghis Khan, at this location. The resulting "Liangzhou Treaty" formalized Tibet's incorporation into the Mongol Empire (and subsequently China), ending decades of warfare and establishing a relationship that continues to this day. Sakya Pandita remained in Wuwei until his death in 1251, and the temple became an important center of Tibetan Buddhism.
The current temple complex was rebuilt after the original was destroyed. The most striking feature is a field of over 100 white stupas (pagodas) of various sizes arranged in rows — a reconstruction of the historic layout. The stupas house relics and are painted white with gold spires, creating a visually striking scene against the backdrop of the mountains. A main hall contains Buddhist images, and a small museum documents the historic meeting and its significance. The site is an active place of worship for local Tibetans and Mongolians.
The temple sits in a rural setting 20 km southeast of Wuwei, surrounded by farmland with views of the Qilian Mountains. It is peaceful and uncrowded. For those interested in Chinese-Tibetan history, this is a must-visit site. The atmosphere is contemplative rather than touristy.
Hours: 8:30–18:00
Admission: ¥25
Transport: 20 km southeast of Wuwei. Taxi ¥60–80 round trip; bus to Wuwei Southeast then taxi.
For visitors who want a desert experience without venturing to the remote dunes of Dunhuang or the Badain Jaran, Wuwei Desert Park offers an accessible taste of Gobi scenery. Located at the edge of the Tengger Desert, 25 km east of the city, the park features rolling sand dunes, desert vegetation, and basic tourist facilities including camel rides, sandboarding, and dune buggies.
The dunes here are smaller and more accessible than the dramatic megadunes further west, making this a good option for families or travelers with limited time. Sunset is the best time to visit — the dunes glow orange and the temperature drops to comfortable levels. The park is not spectacular compared to Dunhuang's Mingsha Dunes or Inner Mongolia's Badain Jaran, but it's a convenient stop for those passing through Wuwei.
Hours: 8:00–19:00 (summer), 8:30–18:00 (winter)
Admission: ¥20; camel ride ¥50–80; sandboard ¥20
Transport: 25 km east of Wuwei. Taxi ¥60–80 round trip; some tours combine with Tiantishan Grottoes.
Haizang Temple (海藏寺), located in Haizang Park on the north side of Wuwei, is a well-preserved Buddhist temple dating to the Ming dynasty (1368–1644). The temple sits on a small island in a lake, connected by arched bridges — the name "Haizang" means "hidden in the sea," referring to its island setting. The temple features traditional Chinese wooden architecture, with carved beams and painted rafters, and contains Buddhist statues from various periods.
The surrounding Haizang Park is a pleasant public space with walking paths, a lake with paddle boats, and local families exercising and strolling. The park offers a glimpse of everyday life in Wuwei. It's a nice place to relax after visiting the major historical sites. Early morning is especially atmospheric, with mist rising from the lake and locals practicing tai chi.
Hours: Temple: 8:00–18:00; Park: open 24 hours
Admission: Free (park); ¥10 (temple)
Transport: Northern edge of city. Taxi ¥10–15 from city center.