Tianshui

A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2014 (as part of the Silk Roads nomination), the Maijishan Grottoes (麦积山石窟) are one of the most spectacular and least-visited of China's great Buddhist cave complexes. The site consists of 221 caves carved into an isolated red sandstone peak rising 142 meters from the surrounding forest, with 7,800+ clay sculptures and 1,000+ square meters of murals spanning 16 centuries of Buddhist art (384–1911 CE). The name "Maijishan" means "Wheat Stack Mountain," describing the peak's distinctive conical shape.

What makes Maijishan unique among China's cave temples is its extraordinary clay sculpture tradition. Unlike the stone carvings at Longmen and Yungang or the paintings at Dunhuang, Maijishan's artisans worked primarily in unfired clay applied over wooden armatures. This medium allowed for remarkable delicacy and expressiveness — flowing robes, subtle gestures, and faces that seem alive with personality. The most famous example is the "Smiling Buddha" in Cave 133, a Northern Wei (386–534 CE) sculpture whose serene, mysterious smile has been compared to the Mona Lisa. The "Little Sramanera" (小沙弥) in Cave 121 — a young monk with a sweet, innocent smile — is equally beloved. These sculptures capture the humanization of Buddhist art in China: deities became approachable, their expressions gentle rather than stern.

The caves are accessed via a network of wooden plank walkways (栈道) suspended from the cliff face — a breathtaking experience as you climb higher and higher, looking down at the forest below through gaps in the boards. The walkways were first constructed during the Northern Wei dynasty and have been rebuilt many times; the current structures are steel-reinforced concrete covered with wooden planks, but the experience of walking along a sheer cliff face remains exhilarating. The highest caves are nearly 100 meters above ground. Those with fear of heights should proceed carefully, though the walkways are wide enough and have railings.

Construction began around 384 CE during the Later Qin dynasty, when Emperor Yao Xing established Maijishan as a royal cave temple. The peak periods of activity were the Northern Wei (386–534 CE), Western Wei (535–556 CE), and Northern Zhou (557–581 CE) dynasties, each with distinctive artistic styles. Northern Wei sculptures are slender and ethereal; Western Wei figures are more rounded and naturalistic; Northern Zhou works show increasing Chinese influence in dress and facial features. The Tang dynasty (618–907 CE) added monumental sculptures including the three giant Buddhas on the eastern cliff face — the central Buddha is 15.7 meters tall. Song, Ming, and Qing dynasty restorations altered some earlier works, creating a palimpsest of artistic styles.

The "Eastern Sculpture Museum" (东方雕塑馆) is not an exaggeration. The density and quality of sculpture here is unmatched anywhere in China. Because the site was relatively remote and little-visited until recent decades, it escaped the heavy restoration (and over-restoration) that affected more famous sites. Many sculptures retain original pigments — traces of red, blue, green, and gold that hint at their original splendor. The relative lack of crowds allows for contemplative viewing; you can stand alone in a 1,500-year-old cave with no one rushing you.

Key Caves to See: Cave 133 (Smiling Buddha, Western Wei), Cave 121 (Little Sramanera, Northern Wei), Cave 4 (Upper Seven Buddha Hall, the largest cave with "thin-flesh flying apsaras" murals), Cave 127 (excellent murals including a rare Western Pure Land painting), Cave 165 ( Song dynasty seated Buddha), and the three giant Buddhas on the eastern cliff (Tang dynasty). Guides can point out specific caves and explain iconography.

Hours: 8:30–17:30 (summer), 9:00–17:00 (winter). Ticket sales stop at 16:30.

Admission: ¥95 (includes entrance and shuttle bus to cliff base). Parking ¥10.

Getting There: 45 km southeast of Tianshui city. Bus No. 34 from Tianshui Railway Station (1 hour, ¥5). Taxi/DiDi ¥80–100 one way. Most hotels can arrange transport.

Visiting: Allow 3–4 hours total. The shuttle bus takes 10 minutes from the ticket center to the cliff base; from there it's a 15-minute walk through forest to the caves. The climb up the walkways takes 1–2 hours depending on your pace and how many caves you enter. Wear comfortable shoes with good grip. Bring water. Photography is permitted outside the caves but flash photography is forbidden inside. The site can be crowded on weekends and holidays; arrive early (before 9:00) for the best experience.

The Fuxi Temple (伏羲庙) in Tianshui is the largest and most important temple dedicated to Fuxi (伏羲) — the legendary first emperor of China, inventor of writing, fishing nets, animal husbandry, and marriage, and creator of the bagua (八卦, Eight Trigrams) that underpin Chinese philosophy and divination. According to myth, Fuxi and his sister/wife Nüwa created humanity after a great flood; Fuxi is thus honored as the progenitor of the Chinese people. Tianshui claims to be Fuxi's birthplace, and this temple — built in 1483 CE during the Ming dynasty — is the premier site for Fuxi worship in all of China.

The temple complex covers 6,600 square meters with traditional Chinese architecture arranged along a north-south axis. The main structures include the Gate (戏楼), the Hall of Rites (仪门), the Main Hall (先天殿) housing a Ming-era statue of Fuxi holding the bagua, and the Hall of the Sleeping Palace (太极殿) with a painted ceiling depicting the 64 hexagrams. The architecture is elegant but not ostentatious — the atmosphere is serene and scholarly, appropriate for a figure associated with wisdom and invention. Ancient cypress trees (some over 1,000 years old) shade the courtyards; the largest, called the "Fuxi Cypress," is said to have been planted by the temple's founders.

The most important event here is the annual Fuxi Public Sacrifice Ceremony (公祭伏羲大典) held on June 22nd (by the lunar calendar), attended by government officials, scholars, and overseas Chinese delegations. The ceremony follows ancient ritual protocols with music, dance, and offerings, and is televised nationwide. Smaller ceremonies occur throughout the year. Even on ordinary days, the temple is filled with visitors seeking blessings for marriage, children, and wisdom — Fuxi's domains. The temple's fortune-telling services are popular; visitors can draw divination sticks and receive interpretations based on the I Ching.

Hours: 8:00–18:00 (summer), 8:30–17:30 (winter)

Admission: ¥20

Transport: In the city center on Fuxi Road. Walking distance from most downtown hotels; taxi ¥10 from the railway station.

Tips: Allow 1–1.5 hours. Visit in the morning for fewer crowds. The small museum inside displays artifacts related to Fuxi mythology and Neolithic archaeology. On the 1st and 15th of each lunar month, local worshippers burn incense and perform rituals — a fascinating glimpse of living folk religion.

Perched on the slopes of Huishan Mountain south of Tianshui, Nanguo Temple (南郭寺) is one of the most atmospheric ancient temples in Gansu. Founded in the Tang dynasty (618–907 CE) and repeatedly rebuilt, the temple is famous for its association with the poet Du Fu (杜甫, 712–770 CE), one of China's greatest literary figures. Du Fu visited Tianshui in 759 CE during his wanderings after the An Lushan Rebellion and wrote several poems about this temple, including the famous line "The mountain's Nanguo Temple, the water's North-Flowing Spring" (山头南郭寺，水号北流泉).

The temple's most famous resident is an ancient cypress tree estimated to be over 2,500 years old — one of the oldest trees in China. The "Tang Cypress" (唐柏) splits into three trunks, each requiring several people to encircle; a small shrine has been built around its roots. The tree was already ancient when Du Fu wrote about it 1,200 years ago. Other highlights include the North-Flowing Spring (北流泉), whose waters are said to have medicinal properties, and the Du Fu Memorial Hall, which displays calligraphy and artifacts related to the poet's Tianshui sojourn.

The approach to the temple is part of the experience — a winding road through orchards and forest, with views across the city to the mountains beyond. The temple itself is tranquil and relatively uncrowded, offering a peaceful contrast to the city center. On clear days, you can see the peak of Maijishan in the distance. The surrounding hills are planted with peach and apple orchards; spring blossoms (late March–early April) are spectacular.

Hours: 8:00–18:00

Admission: ¥40

Transport: 3 km south of city center. Taxi ¥15–20; public bus to Nanguo Temple stop. The approach road is walkable (30 minutes uphill).

Tips: Allow 1.5–2 hours. Combine with a visit to the nearby Huishan Park for hiking and city views. Bring a bottle to collect spring water from the North-Flowing Spring.

The Yuquan Taoist Temple (玉泉观, "Jade Spring Temple") is a sprawling Taoist complex on Tianjing Mountain, overlooking the city from the north. Founded in the Yuan dynasty (1271–1368 CE) and expanded during Ming and Qing, the temple is dedicated to Lü Dongbin (吕洞宾), one of the Eight Immortals of Taoism, and other deities. The complex extends up the mountainside on multiple terraces, with over 80 halls, pavilions, and shrines connected by stairs and pathways.

The name comes from a spring (玉泉) inside the temple whose waters were said to cure eye diseases. The temple is built around this spring, with courtyards shaded by ancient cypress trees — some over 1,000 years old. The main structures include the Sanqing Hall (三清殿), the Lüzu Hall (吕祖殿), and the Yuhuang Pavilion (玉皇阁) at the highest point. The architecture follows Taoist principles, with buildings oriented to harmonize with the mountain's fengshui.

The climb to the top involves several hundred steps but is not difficult, and the views over Tianshui improve with each terrace. The temple is an active religious site with resident Taoist priests; visitors may see rituals, incense burning, and fortune-telling. The atmosphere is authentic and unhurried — this is not a tourist temple but a working religious community. On Taoist festival days, the temple fills with local worshippers.

Hours: 8:00–18:00

Admission: ¥20

Transport: Northern edge of the city. Walking distance from city center (20 minutes uphill) or taxi ¥10.

Tips: Allow 1.5–2 hours. Visit in the morning when Taoist priests perform rituals. The sunset views from the upper terraces are excellent. Combine with a walk through the old city neighborhoods below.

Located 25 km northeast of Tianshui in Wushan County, the Water Curtain Cave (水帘洞) is a unique Buddhist cave temple built beneath a massive natural rock overhang. Water seeping through the cliff face creates a constant "curtain" of droplets that shimmer in sunlight — hence the name. The cave temple dates to the Sixteen Kingdoms period (4th–5th century CE) and contains over 300 square meters of murals and sculptures in various states of preservation.

The most famous feature is the Lashao Temple (拉梢寺) carved into the cliff face nearby — a giant seated Buddha (over 30 meters tall) flanked by bodhisattvas, carved directly into the rock. This monumental sculpture, created in 559 CE during the Northern Zhou dynasty, is one of the largest cliff-side Buddhist carvings in China. The surrounding area includes several smaller cave temples, pavilions, and hiking trails through forested hills. The site is less developed and less visited than Maijishan, offering a more rugged, adventurous experience.

The drive to Water Curtain Cave passes through beautiful mountain scenery and rural villages. The site requires some walking on uneven paths; wear good shoes. The waterfall effect is most dramatic after rain (summer and early autumn), but the site is visitable year-round. This is a good option for a half-day excursion if you've already seen Maijishan and want to explore beyond the main city.

Hours: 8:30–17:30

Admission: ¥30

Transport: 25 km from Tianshui. Taxi or private car (40 minutes, ¥80–100 round trip). Bus to Wushan County, then local transport.

About 35 km west of Tianshui in Gangu County, Daxiang Mountain (大像山, "Great Image Mountain") takes its name from a colossal stone Buddha carved into the cliff face — the Great Buddha of Gangu (甘谷大佛). Standing 23.3 meters tall, this Tang dynasty (618–907 CE) sculpture depicts Maitreya, the Future Buddha, seated in meditation. The Buddha's proportions are masterful — from below, the figure appears perfectly natural, though the head is disproportionately large to compensate for viewing angle.

The site includes a series of temples and pavilions climbing the mountainside, with the Great Buddha at the summit. The climb takes about 30–45 minutes on well-maintained stairs. Along the way are smaller caves with Buddhist sculptures and a temple dedicated to the Han dynasty general Jiang Wei, a Gangu native. The summit offers panoramic views across the Wei River valley. The site is a major pilgrimage destination during Buddhist festivals and is far less commercialized than major tourist sites.

Hours: 8:00–18:00

Admission: ¥20

Transport: 35 km west of Tianshui in Gangu County. Bus to Gangu (30 minutes), then taxi to the site. Total travel time: about 1 hour each way.

Located just 15 km from Maijishan, Xianren Cliff (仙人崖, "Immortal Cliff") offers a complementary experience to the famous grottoes. This is a natural scenic area of forested mountains, waterfalls, and cliffs with smaller cave temples and hermitages scattered throughout. The name comes from legends of immortals who once meditated in these caves.

The site includes three main areas: West Cliff (西崖), East Cliff (东崖), and South Cliff (南崖), each with different scenery and attractions. The West Cliff has a Taoist temple built into a rock overhang; the East Cliff features a waterfall; the South Cliff offers hiking trails with views. The combination of natural beauty and religious sites makes this a pleasant half-day outing. The area is cooler than the city in summer and offers fall foliage in October–November.

Xianren Cliff can easily be combined with a Maijishan visit — they're close enough to see both in one day. Some visitors prefer Xianren's natural, uncrowded atmosphere to Maijishan's more developed tourism infrastructure. The site has basic food and drink vendors but no full-service restaurants.

Hours: 8:00–18:00

Admission: ¥40

Transport: 15 km from Maijishan, 50 km from Tianshui. Best reached by taxi or as part of a Maijishan day trip. Some Maijishan tour packages include Xianren Cliff.